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Regional Group #1

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RG 1 will display those Tech Tips that our members have found helpful.
We recognize that there is more than one way to skin a cat!
Please send your Tech Tips to:

Web Sites

Bill Bloogaar's Real Engines Don't Have Valve Covers  www.flatheadsrus.com  
Discussion Forum (Join the Yahoo discussion group), and public tech information website  

EFV8CA Forum   click here for the forum
Early Ford V-8 Club Forum  

Formulas Conversion Charts  www.mercurypickup.com  
Many useful formulas and conversion charts

Mac Van Pelt's   www.vanpeltsales.com
Well researched wealth of online Flathead information

Paint Code Cross Reference paintref.com/paintref/index.shtml 
Model/Year color names and codes cross-referenced to modern equivalents.

Paul Garrigan's "Rumbleseat"  www.flatheadv8.org/rumblest/intro.htm 
Flatmotor knowledge and tips explained in an easy to read format.

Red Hamilton's "Engine Talk"  www.reds-headers.com/html/engine_talk.html
All Red's articles that originally appeared in the V8 Times

Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford  www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm
A compilation of flat motor knowledge from tech discussion websites

The Fordbarn   www.fordbarn.com
Discussion Forums, Swap Sites, Interesting Links

Some Commonly Used Tools
Click here
Emergency tip for
highway breakdown
Click here


Tip Details

Broken Stud Removal
A proven method for the safe removal of broken head studs without damage to the block or the threads. Click here for a website with pictures and details. Contributed by Alan Simpson

Buy American 
The Buy American slogan was never more important than when looking for reproduction classic auto parts. Remember the big flap over the poor quality of reproduction Firestone tires from Argentina some years back? Well, now its all sorts of parts for our cars, from multiple foreign countries. Even if a part comes in a well known suppliers packaging, it's liable to be made in China with no quality control to speak of. All the suppliers have foreign made parts these days, so before you buy, be sure it's Made In America. Contributed by Alan Simpson

Cranking Engine for Valve Adjustment  
Cranking the engine to the precise alignment for static valve adjustment can be tricky with the starter motor, and just as tricky by turning the fan. With the transmission in reverse, jack up one rear wheel and use the wheel to turn over the engine to the exact spot you need. This is, of course, easier accomplished with a friend. Just keep him supplied with beer! Contributed by Alan Simpson

Crankshaft Identification   
The intent of this article is to enable you to identify the crankshaft you are looking at as either a Mercury 4" stroke or a Ford 3-3/4" stroke. The description will enable you to make a somewhat positive identification and the pictures can be used to clear up what is foggy. Click here for the complete paper in PDF format. By Bill Boomer (4tford) from fordbarn discussion Forum

Differential Identification   
From Model A through '48, Differentials, axles and housings, driveshafts and torque tubes. Click here for descriptions, dimensions, and pictures.

Door & Window Regulator Retaining Pin Removal/Installation Tool    
Don't have a cow, man. This simple tool makes it easy. Click here

Engine Oil Choices and Oil Filter construction
This link, although it's directed to Mopar enthusiasts, is the best I've seen regarding engine oil choices, and oil filter construction. Click here, for the updated version of this very informative and impartial study.

Evolution of the Flathead
Here is the 221-239-255 cube U.S.A. flathead block story with pictures, to the best of my knowledge and ability to collect pictures so far. Click here for the complete Paper in PDF format. Compiled and contributed by Fred Mills.

Flathead Block Full Flow Oil Filter Modification White Paper
This modification to the 1932-53 Ford / Mercury Flathead V/8 engine block is intended for converting the original Ford Partial Bypass oil filter system to a Semi-Full Flow oil filter system covering the entire system less the rear main bearing and connecting rod journals # 4 & # 8. Click here for the complete White Paper in PDF format.

How To Build Ford Flathead V8 Horsepower  - A book by George McNicholl
This is a preview of a book you can buy online. Click here for the preview and links for purchasing.

Installing an emergency brake on a '35-'36 when converting to hydraulic brakes
Hooking up a functional parking brake on a '35 - '36 Ford is quite easy, in fact it can be done for under $50. Click here for a description and pictures.  By Tom  Mason Holland,  MI 

Ignition Lock Restoration for 1935 - 1936 Fords
Click here for some tips on restoring these ignition locks. This also can be used for restoring other early Ford ignition switches.  By Tom  Mason Holland,  MI 

Pressurizing Your Radiator  
The old radiators weren't designed to be pressurized. When you put a pressure cap on say, a 1936 Ford radiator, you run a risk of "oil canning" your top tank from the pressure. None of the old radiators should have more than a 4 lb cap, but even with that, flexing will occur on some tanks with broad expanses of unsupported tank surfaces. This movement will, sooner or later, stress the solder joints of your tank, causing a failure. To help prevent this unwanted flexing, should you have your radiator in for work anyway, have the guy fabricate a rib brace to solder along the central inner surface of the top tank. Contributed by Alan Simpson

Rejuvenating elderly Seapak (and interior cardboard) with Minwax Ebony Stain   
First reported by Patrick Malone for use on faded pickup truck interior cardboard, John Tesch reports its benefits for renewing Seapak:............"it works great, the same as it did on the firewall board (sic) chicken foot insulation beneath the dash. I found my Minwax stain right next to my collection of used tooth brushes and I figured that was fate so that is the brush I used and with positive results . The tooth brush works well because it doesn't hold much liquid, you can tap it on the can to reduce the amount of liquid held by the brush and it seemed to cover well with small circular motions. Have to be careful as Seapak will absorb as much stain as you deliver, therefore, be frugal in its application. I tried a small cloth but it held too much stain and the Seapak absorbed it immediately before covering much area. Simply let it air dry for a couple days and its dry with no odor."

Spider Hubcap Removal Tool   
Spider hubcaps being so difficult to remove, I built a puller that stays in the car with the tire tools. It's basically just a long handled hook made from flat stock, having a large pipe nipple as a slide hammer . Contributed by Alan Simpson

Steering Gear Swap for 1935 - 1936 Fords
Click here for a detailed explanation of  the procedure for steering wheel replacement and/or steering gear replacement and replacing the '35-'36 steering gear assembly with a 1937-40 steering gear assembly. By Tom  Mason Holland,  MI 

Sticky Valves
There's been a lot of talk lately about sticky valves. It seems that the stuff they call gasoline these days varnishes up the valve guides on our V8's. A solution reported on the EFV8CA forum by lots of guys, is the use of MMO, or Marvel Mystery Oil, in the gasoline. We've all heard that MMO is good for anything that ails ya, but this time it might be true.

If you've tried it in your gas and like the result, you may want to install a top oiler to regulate the delivery of the stuff. That brings us to another name you've heard for years: Amco. (No, not Amsoil) The Amco Top Cylinder Lubricator is still available, and is an easy install on our flatheads. Save your valve guides, save your valve seats, all the stuff you've heard for years is back with us again. MMO in your Amco Top Oiler. Go to: ampcolubes.com Contributed by Alan Simpson.

Your insurance has got you covered  
When your fan blade breaks off from metal fatigue and goes through your hood, your unbalanced fan hub cracks your manifold, and continues to churn into your radiator, you've got an expensive repair job to put your car right again. Or do you? If you have full coverage on your car, you have Collision and Comprehensive. You may have a deductible to pay, but the cost for such an incident could range into the mid four digits easily, which is covered under all Comprehensive policies. The catch? Your insurance will not pay for the new fan. It will pay for all the damage the broken fan caused, but you must supply the replacement fan. How about the damage that can be caused when a tire throws a tread at highway speed? You buy the new tire, your insurance pays the rest. Like money from heaven? You pay for the insurance, you deserve to be paid when you make a legitimate claim! Contributed by Alan Simpson

Vacuum Gauge Chart   
Click here for a useful chart.

ZINC   
For those with non-stock valve trains that are concerned about the reduced zinc content in modern SM class oil,
click here to read this download from Valvoline.