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Early Ford V-8 Club of America Golden Gate Charter Regional Group #1 |
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RG 1 will display those Tech Tips that our members have found helpful.
We recognize that there is more than one way to skin a cat!
Please send your Tech Tips to:
Web Sites
Bill Bloogaar's Real Engines Don't Have Valve Covers
www.telusplanet.net/public/bboogaar
Discussion Forum (Join the Yahoo discussion group), and public tech information website
EFV8CA Forum
click here for the forum
Early Ford V-8 Club Forum
Formulas Conversion Charts
www.mercurypickup.com
Many useful formulas and conversion charts
Mac Van Pelt's
www.vanpeltsales.com
Well researched wealth of online
Flathead information
Red Hamilton's "Engine Talk"
www.reds-headers.com/html/engine_talk.html
All Red's articles that originally appeared in the V8 Times
Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford
www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm
A compilation of flat motor knowledge from tech discussion websites
The Fordbarn
www.fordbarn.com
Discussion Forums, Swap Sites, Interesting Links
Tip Details
Broken Stud Removal
A technique for removing broken head studs from a Model A engine block without damaging the block or the threads. Works on flush broken studs, as well as ones that have been cobbled on with drills and easy outs. Works on aluminum heads too.
Click
here for a website with pictures and details. Contributed by Alan Simpson
Buy American
The Buy American slogan was never more important than when looking for reproduction classic auto parts. Remember the big flap over the poor quality of reproduction Firestone tires from Argentina some years back? Well, now its all sorts of parts for our cars, from multiple foreign countries. Even if a part comes in a well known suppliers packaging, it's liable to be made in China with no quality control to speak of. All the suppliers have foreign made parts these days, so before you buy, be sure it's Made In America. Contributed by Alan Simpson
Cranking Engine for Valve Adjustment
Cranking the engine to the precise alignment for static valve adjustment can be tricky with the starter motor, and just as tricky by turning the fan. With the transmission in reverse, jack up one rear wheel and use the wheel to turn over the engine to the exact spot you need. This is, of course, easier accomplished with a friend. Just keep him supplied with beer! Contributed by Alan Simpson
Crankshaft Identification
The intent of this article is to enable you to identify the crankshaft you are looking at as
either a Mercury 4" stroke or a Ford 3-3/4" stroke. The description will enable you to make a somewhat positive identification and the pictures can be used to clear
up what is foggy. Click here
for the complete paper in PDF format. By Bill Boomer (4tford) from fordbarn discussion Forum
Faded Interior Cardboard
Many Ford pickup trucks can benefit from this sprucing-up trick: Try Minwax Ebony Stain on your faded interior cardboard. Just the right touch, gives a very original finish. As with all things, practice on a concealed spot first. Contributed by Patrick Malone
Flathead Block Full Flow Oil Filter Modification White
Paper
This modification to the 1932-53 Ford / Mercury Flathead V/8 engine block is intended for converting the original Ford Partial Bypass oil filter system to a Semi-Full Flow oil filter system covering the entire system less the rear main bearing and connecting rod journals # 4
& # 8. Click here
for the complete White Paper in PDF format.
How To Build Ford Flathead V8 Horsepower - A book
by George McNicholl
This is a preview of a book you can buy online. Click
here for the preview and links for purchasing.
Pressurizing Your Radiator
The old radiators weren't designed to be pressurized. When you put a pressure cap on say, a 1936 Ford radiator, you run a risk of "oil canning" your top tank from the pressure. None of the old radiators should have more than a 4 lb cap, but even with that, flexing will occur on some tanks with broad expanses of unsupported tank surfaces. This movement will, sooner or later, stress the solder joints of your tank, causing a failure. To help prevent this unwanted flexing, should you have your radiator in for work anyway, have the guy fabricate a rib brace to solder along the central inner surface of the top tank. Contributed by Alan Simpson
Spider Hubcap Removal Tool
Spider hubcaps being so difficult to remove, I built a puller that stays in the car with the tire tools.
It's basically just a long handled hook made from flat stock, having a large pipe nipple as a slide hammer . Contributed by Alan Simpson
Sticky Valves
There's been a lot of talk lately about sticky valves. It seems that the stuff they call gasoline these days varnishes up the valve guides on our V8's. A solution reported on the EFV8CA forum by lots of guys, is the use of MMO, or Marvel Mystery Oil, in the gasoline. We've all heard that MMO is good for anything that ails ya, but this time it might be true.
If you've tried it in your gas and like the result, you may want
to install a top oiler to regulate the delivery of the stuff. That
brings us to another name you've heard for years: Amco. (No, not Amsoil)
The Amco Top Cylinder Lubricator is still available, and is an easy
install on our flatheads. Save your valve guides, save your valve seats,
all the stuff you've heard for years is back with us again. MMO in your
Amco Top Oiler. Go to:
ampcolubes.com Contributed by Alan Simpson.
Your insurance has got you covered
When your fan blade breaks off from metal fatigue and goes through your hood, your unbalanced fan hub cracks your manifold, and continues to churn into your radiator, you've got an expensive repair job to put your car right again. Or do you? If you have full coverage on your car, you have Collision and Comprehensive. You may have a deductible to pay, but the cost for such an incident could range into the mid four digits easily, which is covered under all Comprehensive policies. The catch? Your insurance will not pay for the new fan. It will pay for all the damage the broken fan caused, but you must supply the replacement fan. How about the damage that can be caused when a tire throws a tread at highway speed? You buy the new tire, your insurance pays the rest. Like money from heaven? You pay for the insurance, you deserve to be paid when you make a legitimate claim! Contributed by Alan Simpson